How to Plant Lettuce (Seeds, Seedlings & Succession)

Lettuce is the fastest, easiest vegetable in the home garden — a single packet of seeds can produce a continuous supply of fresh salad greens from early spring through autumn if you plant in succession. The trick isn’t horticultural skill; it’s timing. Plant when the weather is cool, plant often, and succession-sow every 2–3 weeks instead of one big bed.

This guide covers every method — direct sowing, transplants, container, and cut-and-come-again — with the spacings, depths, and succession timing that turn one packet of seeds into months of salads.

Quick answer

Sow lettuce seeds 0.3–0.6 cm (⅛–¼ in) deep, spaced 10–30 cm (4–12 in) apart depending on type. Plant in cool weather — 4–6 weeks before last frost in spring, or 6–8 weeks before first frost in autumn. Optimal temperature 10–18°C (50–65°F). Sow a new short row every 14–21 days for continuous harvest.

Table of contents

1. Lettuce types — pick by harvest style
2. When to plant lettuce
3. Preparing the bed
4. How to direct-sow lettuce
5. How to plant lettuce transplants
6. Spacing by lettuce type
7. Cut-and-come-again method
8. Succession planting for continuous harvest
9. Container and raised-bed planting
10. Common mistakes
11. Troubleshooting
12. FAQ

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Lettuce types — pick by harvest style

Lettuce comes in four main types. Each has different spacing, growing time, and harvest method.

Type	Examples	Days to harvest	Harvest method
Leaf (loose-leaf)	‘Black-Seeded Simpson’, ‘Salad Bowl’, ‘Red Sails’	30–45	Cut outer leaves; plant regrows
Butterhead (Boston/Bibb)	‘Buttercrunch’, ‘Tom Thumb’	50–65	Cut whole head when mature
Romaine (Cos)	‘Parris Island’, ‘Jericho’, ‘Little Gem’	60–75	Cut whole head; tall upright leaves
Crisphead (iceberg)	‘Great Lakes’, ‘Iceberg’	70–85	Cut tight crisp head

For first-time growers and the easiest continuous supply, start with leaf lettuce. It’s the most forgiving, fastest, and lets you harvest outer leaves while the plant keeps producing.

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When to plant lettuce

Lettuce is a cool-season crop that thrives at 10–18°C (50–65°F). Above 24°C (75°F) it bolts (shoots up flower stalks), turns bitter, and stops producing usable leaves.

Spring planting:

• Direct sow 4–6 weeks before last frost
• Soil temperature 10°C (50°F) or warmer (lettuce won’t germinate below 4°C / 40°F)
• Continue succession sowing through late spring

Autumn planting:

• Direct sow 6–8 weeks before first frost
• Cooler soil and shorter days favour quality
• Often produces the best lettuce of the year

Summer:

• Skip the hottest 6–8 weeks in most climates
• Or use 30–50% shade cloth, heavy mulch, daily watering, and bolt-resistant cultivars

Mild winter climates (zones 8+):

• Lettuce can be grown right through winter
• May need a row cover on hard-frost nights below -3°C (27°F)

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Preparing the bed

Lettuce roots are shallow and fine — they don’t need deeply dug beds, but they do need rich, fertile, evenly moist soil to grow fast. Slow-growing lettuce is bitter lettuce.

1. Loosen soil to 15 cm (6 in). Lettuce roots rarely go deeper, but the top 15 cm needs to be friable.

2. Work in compost. A 2–3 cm (1 in) layer of well-rotted compost mixed into the top 10 cm provides the steady nutrition lettuce needs.

3. Target pH 6.0–7.0. Lettuce isn’t picky but performs best at slightly acidic to neutral.

4. Smooth the surface. Tiny lettuce seeds get lost in chunky soil. Rake to a fine, level seedbed.

5. Pre-water before sowing. Water the bed 24 hours before sowing — this ensures even moisture from below without disturbing newly sown seeds.

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How to direct-sow lettuce

Direct sowing is the fastest path from packet to plate.

1. Open shallow furrows. Use the edge of a hoe, a pencil, or your fingertip to draw furrows 0.3–0.6 cm (⅛–¼ in) deep, spacing rows 30 cm (12 in) apart.

2. Sow seeds thinly. Drop seeds every 2–3 cm (1 in) along the furrow. Lettuce seeds are tiny — pinch a small amount between fingers and sprinkle.

3. Cover lightly. Lightly cover with a thin layer of fine soil or vermiculite. Lettuce seeds need light to germinate — deep planting (>1 cm / ½ in) drastically reduces germination.

4. Water with a mist. A fine spray prevents seeds from washing into clusters.

5. Keep soil surface moist. Don’t let the soil crust over. Mist daily until germination.

6. Germination in 7–14 days. Cooler soil takes longer; 18°C (65°F) is the sweet spot at 5–7 days.

7. Thin to final spacing. When seedlings have 2 true leaves, thin to the spacing for your variety type. Use thinnings in salads.

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How to plant lettuce transplants

Transplants give you a 3–4 week head start in spring or extend the autumn season.

Indoor sowing:

• Start 4–6 weeks before outdoor planting date
• Use plug trays or soil blocks (deep transplant disturbance kills lettuce)
• Bottom-water to avoid damping off
• Harden off 7–10 days before transplanting

Outdoor planting:

• Plant when soil is workable and air temp is reliably above 4°C (40°F)
• Set plug at the same depth it grew — never bury the growing point
• Space at the final type-specific distance immediately
• Water in deeply

Lettuce sulks for a few days after transplant — this is normal. Keep the soil consistently moist and growth resumes within a week.

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Spacing by lettuce type

Lettuce type	In-row spacing	Row spacing	Plants per m²
Leaf lettuce	10–15 cm (4–6 in)	30 cm (12 in)	22–33
Butterhead	20–25 cm (8–10 in)	30–40 cm (12–16 in)	10–17
Romaine	25–30 cm (10–12 in)	35–40 cm (14–16 in)	8–11
Crisphead/iceberg	30 cm (12 in)	45 cm (18 in)	7
Cut-and-come-again	broadcast 1–2 cm (½ in) apart	n/a	~400 (no thinning)

For other vegetable bed layouts, see how far apart to plant broccoli — broccoli and lettuce make excellent companions in the same bed.

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Cut-and-come-again method

The fastest, easiest way to grow lettuce — broadcast seeds densely and harvest baby greens repeatedly.

1. Broadcast seeds evenly across a 30 × 60 cm (1 × 2 ft) area. Aim for one seed every 1–2 cm (½–¾ in) — denser than traditional sowing.

2. Press seeds in lightly with the back of a hoe or a flat board. Don’t bury — light surface contact is enough.

3. Mist daily until germination at 5–10 days.

4. Harvest at 5–8 cm (2–3 in) tall — usually 21–30 days. Cut leaves 2.5 cm (1 in) above soil with scissors.

5. Plant regrows in 14–21 days for a second cut, then a third. After three cuts, vigour declines — pull and resow.

This method works brilliantly in a single 60 × 90 cm (2 × 3 ft) raised bed corner, providing salad greens nearly continuously.

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Succession planting for continuous harvest

A single 1 m (3 ft) row of lettuce produces a glut for 2 weeks, then nothing. Succession sowing prevents this.

The rhythm:

• Sow a new 1 m (3 ft) row every 14–21 days
• 4–6 successions in spring (March–May)
• 4–6 successions in autumn (August–October)
• Pause for the hottest mid-summer weeks

Visual planning:

1. Mark a calendar with sowing dates from 4 weeks before last frost through 4 weeks after.
2. Repeat with autumn dates from 8 weeks before first frost backwards.
3. Each batch matures while the previous is being harvested.

For container or balcony growers, replace one lettuce pot at a time on the same schedule. See how to grow lettuce in containers for the small-space version.

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Container and raised-bed planting

Lettuce excels in containers and raised beds — shallow roots, no need for deep soil.

Containers:

• Minimum depth 15 cm (6 in)
• Window box or wide shallow container ideal
• Fill with quality potting mix mixed with compost
• Water more often than in-ground (containers dry faster)

Raised beds:

• 30 cm (12 in) deep is plenty
• Excellent for spring early starts (soil warms faster)
• Combine with shorter companions (radishes, scallions, arugula)

For full-shade indoor growing, lettuce works well under inexpensive LED grow lights — see how to use grow lights for indoor plants.

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Common mistakes

• Planting too deep. Anything beyond 1 cm (½ in) blocks light and kills germination.
• Sowing in heat. Soil above 24°C (75°F) inhibits germination — wait for the cool window.
• One big planting instead of successions. A 2-week glut, then 8 weeks of nothing. Succession sow.
• Forgetting to thin. Crowded lettuce stays small, bitter, and prone to rot.
• Letting soil dry out. Inconsistent moisture causes bitter leaves and bolting.
• Heavy watering on young seedlings. Washes seeds together. Mist instead.
• Planting under tall crops. Lettuce tolerates partial shade but won’t thrive in dense shade.
• Not protecting from slugs. New lettuce is a slug magnet — set traps or apply iron phosphate.

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Troubleshooting

Symptom	Likely cause	Fix
No germination after 2 weeks	Soil too warm, seeds too deep, or dried out	Re-sow with shallow cover; mist twice daily; pre-cool soil with shade cloth
Tall flower stalks shooting up	Bolting from heat	Harvest immediately; replant in cooler weather; choose bolt-resistant variety
Bitter leaves	Heat stress, drought, or nutrient deficiency	Steady water, mulch, switch to autumn planting
Slimy or rotting outer leaves	Overhead watering + crowding	Switch to drip irrigation; thin to proper spacing
Slug holes everywhere	Standard for new lettuce	Iron phosphate granules; beer traps; copper tape around bed
Pale yellow leaves	Nitrogen deficiency or low light	Side-dress with diluted liquid fertiliser; ensure 4+ hrs sun
Tip burn (brown edges)	Calcium imbalance from inconsistent water	Mulch heavily; keep moisture even
Aphids clustered on undersides	Standard cool-season pest	Strong water spray; ladybug attractants

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Final notes

If you remember just three things: shallow seed cover (light is needed), cool weather (10–18°C / 50–65°F), and frequent succession sowing — you’ll have lettuce for months without any specialist knowledge.

For more cool-season green guidance:

• How to grow lettuce in containers — small-space version
• How to grow arugula indoors — fast salad partner
• How to grow spinach — pairs in the same cool window
• How to start a vegetable garden — full beginner’s plot
• How far apart to plant broccoli — bed companion

Track succession dates and never miss a planting window with the free Tazart plant care app.

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A note on conditions

Climate, variety, soil type, and seasonal weather all shift these numbers slightly. The depths, spacings, and timings above are well-tested averages — adjust by 1–2 weeks based on your local frost dates and what your specific cultivar’s seed packet recommends.